Chanel’s History
Fashion’s most iconic and innovative handbag designer, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, opened her first boutique in 1910 at rue Cambon in Paris, France. Decades later, Karl Lagerfeld took over as creative director for the brand. Like Chanel, he looked to the past as inspiration for his designs. Lagerfeld often reimagined Chanel’s trademark elements and was responsible for bringing back the iconic “CC” emblem.
Every year, Chanel releases handbags from the classic collection, seasonal collections and Métiers d’art. The classic collection refers to bags continuously made every season, while seasonal and Métiers d’art collections are limited in quantity. For example, the 2.55 and timeless Classic Flap bags are in the classic collection and made in various colors, materials and hardware.
Sometimes the French fashion house will discontinue several styles, like the Medallion and Cambon bag. Chanel also releases special edition bags in limited quantities inspired by runway collection. These can be extremely rare and hard to find.
The annual Métiers d’Art show celebrates couture techniques by bringing together skilled artisans for an innovative and collaborative Ready-to-Wear collection.
Chanel 2.55 Bag
In February 1955, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel released the iconic shoulder bag and chain. Several hallmark elements of the 2.55 bag include the deep burgundy interior and the diamond quilted stitching. The bags also feature a “Mademoiselle Turnlock” closure and a gold-plated chain strap that a collector can double to wear as a shoulder bag or long as a crossbody.
Chanel 2.55 Reissue Bag
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 2.55 bag, Karl Lagerfeld released the 2.55 Reissue. It’s almost identical to Chanel’s original iteration; however, there is one notable difference. The 2.55 Reissue does include special interior stitching, setting it apart from the 2.55 bag. Now a part of the classic collection, the bag comes in five sizes:
- Chanel 2.55 Reissue 224 Bag
- Chanel 2.55 Reissue 225 Bag
- Chanel 2.55 Reissue 226 Bag
- Chanel 2.55 Reissue 227 Bag
- Chanel 2.55 Reissue 228 Bag
Chanel Classic Flap Bag
Chanel’s Classic handbag, also referred to as the 11.12 bag or Timeless Classic bag, was Karl Lagerfeld’s interpretation of the 2.55. The brand released the Chanel Flap bag in 1983 with several well-known details, including the signature diamond quilted stitching, leather and chain interlaced strap and an interlocked “CC” closure. The Classic Flap comes in four sizes: Small, medium, jumbo and maxi. The Chanel Flap bag is available in many types of leather, sizes and hardware combinations with two main styles, a double or single flap
Chanel Boy Bag
The Chanel Boy bag launched in 2011 as a tribute to Chanel’s first love, Boy Capel. Karl Lagerfeld’s boxy silhouette features a chunkier chain and metal hardware as a nod to the androgynous tendencies of Chanel herself.
Chanel Medallion Tote
The Chanel Medallion tote features a square all-leather design, diamond quilting, interlocking “CC” logo stitched on the front, round leather handles and its namesake medallion zipper pull. Collectors love this tote for its sturdy structure and classic look.
Chanel Quilted Shopping Tote
Chanel crafts the Shopping tote using quilted caviar leather while prominently featuring the interlocking “CC” logo. The totes also come with interlaced leather and chain shoulder straps, plus a large interior compartment. Collectors can find these totes in four styles:
- Grand Shopping Tote
- Petite Shopping Tote
- Petite Timeless Tote
- XL Shopping Tote
Chanel Cambon Ligne
Made from calfskin leather with a bold CC logo at the side, Chanel introduced this popular style in 2004. While the brand discontinued most of the line, savvy resale shoppers can still find the Cambon Wallet on Chain (WOC), totes and shoulder bags on secondary marketplaces.
Chanel Wallet on Chain (WOC)
Though the Wallet on Chain is a “small leather good,” it’s often used as a handbag. Because of its more affordable price point, it's usually seen as a great first Chanel purchase. The most popular styles of the WOC include:
- Chanel Classic WOC
- Chanel Cambon WOC
- Chanel Timeless WOC
- Chanel 2.55 WOC
- Chanel Boy WOC
Chanel Executive Cerf Tote
This tote quickly became part of Chanel’s classic collection upon its release in 2005. The Cerf comes in four sizes: Small, regular, Tall and XL. The sturdy Cerf tote features a small interlocking “CC” metal clasp, removable leather shoulder strap, structured top handles, caviar or calfskin leather and bottom studs.
Chanel Gabrielle Bag
Created by Karl Lagerfeld and inspired by the brand's founder herself, the Gabrielle was released in 2017. The Gabrielle’s notable characteristics include a diamond quilted body, a contrasting smooth calfskin leather base, two-tone metal interlaced chain strap and an interlocking “CC” logo zipper pull. For those Chanel devotees interested in a more versatile bag, take note. The Gabrielle comes with a convertible style strap so fashionistas can wear it on their shoulders or as a crossbody. It's available in four sizes:
- Chanel Gabrielle Small Hobo Bag
- Chanel Gabrielle Hobo Bag
- Chanel Gabrielle Large Hobo Bag
- Chanel Gabrielle Backpack
Chanel 19 Bag
Named for the year of its release, 2019, the Chanel 19 bag has oversized diamond quilting, a large mixed gold/ruthenium chain, and a chain-inspired interlocking "CC" clasp. The structured Chanel 19 bag has a long chain and leather strap and a top-handle chain strap to carry in hand. The Chanel 19 is available in five sizes:
- Chanel 19 Waist Bag
- Chanel 19 Wallet on Chain
- Chanel 19 Flap Bag
- Chanel 19 Large Flap Bag
- Chanel 19 Maxi Flap Bag
Chanel Deauville Tote
The Deauville tote is another nod to Chanel's history as its fine toile canvas emphasizes the historic advertisement of its flagship boutique. Named after one of Chanel’s favorite beach resorts in Normandy, the Deauville tote first appeared in Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Chanel continues to release this tote in different colors and materials each season or suit different collection themes.
Chanel Diana Bag
The Chanel Diana bag, also designed by Karl Lagerfeld, was produced in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Princess Diana popularized the original design as she owned a small version. In 2015, Chanel released an updated version of the Diana bag inspired by the archival version with added back pocket and double straps.
Additional Covetable Chanel Leather Goods
In 2013, Chanel released the ultimate collector’s piece: a Chanel No. 5 Perfume Bottle clutch. This extremely rare plexiglass oversized clutch is the exact shape of a No. 5 perfume bottle in clear or opaque black with a classic chain and leather strap. The French fashion house also released its Art School backpack in 2014. This elusive piece features a grungy aesthetic with couture embellishments.
Materials and Craftsmanship of Chanel Bags
Chanel's expert craftsmen produce these legendary pieces in France, Italy and Spain and often make wide use of caviar and lambskin leather. Caviar is grained calfskin leather with a small circular pebble-like texture. It’s known for its durability, which often makes it a popular choice for Chanel collectors looking for an everyday piece. On the other hand, lambskin leather is smoother. It's identifiable by its “puffy” look. Other materials used by the brand include:
- Calfskin
- Patent Leather
- Jersey
- Tweed
- Velvet
Chanel Handbag’s Value and Collectibility
Before investing in a Chanel handbag, it’s important to know that the pieces often retain their value as these iconic bags are always in demand. For example, pre-loved small Chanel 2.55 double flap bags, on average, fetch around $2,700 on the resale marketplace, while pre-owned small 2.55 Reissue single flap bags sell for more than $3,100. With many options on secondary marketplaces, interested shoppers can easily purchase a coveted Boy bag. In early 2021, pre-owned medium-sized Boy bags retail for more than $3,900.