The Chanel Flap Bag
When most people think of Chanel, the flap bag comes to mind. For those new to Chanel handbags' vocabulary, collectors worldwide consider any bag with an envelope-style fold as a flap bag, including the 2.55, Classic, Boy and 19. However, the Classic flap refers to those bags with an interlocked “CC” clasp and interlaced leather and metal chain. In contrast, the 2.55 refers to Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel's original design with the “Mademoiselle” turn-lock and an all-metal chain released in February 1955. The Chanel flap bag comes in various styles using trademark design details like “CC” logos, chains and quilted leather. The 2.55 flap and Classic flap bags skew toward formal styles, while the Chanel Boy flap, Chanel 19 flap, and the Coco Handle attract casual-yet-edgy collectors.
Styles of Chanel Flap Bags
Flap bag models include:
- Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag
- Chanel Classic Flap Bag
- Chanel Boy Flap Bag
- Chanel 19 Flap Bag
- Chanel Coco Handle Flap Bag
- Chanel Vintage Flap Bag
The Original Flap Bag: The Chanel 2.55
Initially introduced in February 1955, the boxy flap bag features a soft sliding chain and the universally recognized diamond-patterned quilted on calfskin leather. Most notably, the bag includes a rectangular metal “Mademoiselle” turn-lock clasp. In 2005, for the 50th anniversary of the original 2.55 bag, Karl Lagerfeld created the 2.55 Reissue. Chanel refers to this style as the 2.55, though collectors may call any style after 2005 a Reissue 2.55. There are five sizes of this handbag: 224, 225, 226, 227 and 228.
Chanel Classic Flap
Karl Lagerfeld reintroduced the interlocking “CC” motif and paired it with Chanel’s famous quilted flap bag, creating Chanel’s Classic flap. This bag, otherwise known as the 11.12, was Karl Lagerfeld’s interpretation of the 2.55 iteration in 1983. The iconic bag, part of Chanel’s permanent collection, features a downward curved flap style, a leather and chain interlaced shoulder strap and an interlocked double “CC” closure on a leather tab. The bag interlaced leather and chain strap doubles to wear on the shoulder or lengthened for a longer drop.
The Classic flap comes in four sizes: small, medium, jumbo and maxi. The Chanel flap bag is available in many types of leather, sizes and hardware combinations with a double or single flap. On the secondhand market, collectors may refer to these bags as Timeless Classic flap bags or Iconic flap bags.
Chanel Boy Flap Bag
Chanel’s collectors gravitate toward the Boy bag because of its edgy look, functionality and versatility. Key design details on a Boy bag include the quilted detailing, the linear border around the edges, the large rectangle lock clasp and the chunky chain strap. Unlike the 2.55 and the Classic flap, the Boy’s flap covers the entire front body. However, its most distinguishing feature is the lock closure. The clasp features an ornamental embossed double “CC” with rectangular release buttons on each side of the clasp, allowing it to be opened and closed on the bag's front. The Chanel Boy bag comes in four sizes: small, old medium, new medium and large.
Chanel 19 Flap Bag
Named for the year of its release, 2019, the Chanel 19 bag features a curved flap, oversized diamond quilting, a large mixed gold and ruthenium chain and a chain-inspired interlocking “CC” clasp. The puffy, diamond quilt Chanel 19 bag has a long chain and leather strap, along with a top handle chain strap to carry in hand. The Chanel 19 flap is available in three sizes: small, large and maxi.
Chanel Coco Handle Flap Bag
The Coco Handle flap bag features classic elements like a straight flap style and its signature leather top handle. The Coco Handle flap is reminiscent of the Classic flap bag with a “CC” turn-lock clasp and interlaced leather and chain strap. The Coco Handle flap bag comes in three sizes: mini, small and medium.
Chanel Diana Flap Bag
The most sought-after vintage Chanel flap bag is the Chanel Diana bag from the late 1980s and early 1990s. The late Princess Diana popularized this bag as she frequently carried a small iteration with her. The quilted flap bag looks like the classic flap with an interlocking “CC” turn-lock in 24k gold but has a smooth leather border around the flap and a single flap style.
Materials and Craftsmanship of Chanel Flap Bags
Chanel is known for its expert craftsmanship and using the finest materials with noticeably impeccable and symmetrical stitching. The House makes its handbags in workshops across France, Italy and Spain, annually releasing handbags for its permanent and seasonal collections.
Flap bags come in myriad of materials, including but not limited to lambskin, grained calfskin and goatskin leather which can come in two patterns—the brand’s easily identifiable diamond quilt and its other popular option, chevron. Additionally, shoppers can find flap bags in Chanel favorites like tweed or jersey. Hardware is another important Chanel Classic Flap bag hallmark. Shoppers will find silver and gold-tone metal hardware with special edition options, including ruthenium and iridescent metals.
Chanel Flap Bag’s Pricing and Collectability
Chanel flap bags are considered by many to be excellent investment pieces. Whether you’re a first-time collector or Chanel devotee seeking to add to your already robust collection, there are many Chanel flap bag iterations available on the secondary marketplace. In early 2021, medium-sized pre-loved Chanel 2.55 bags fetch, on average, more than $3,600, while pre-owned iterations of the Chanel Diana sell for around $4,100.