Introduction to the Rolex Pearlmaster
Defined by its bracelet style, exclusively crafted in precious metals and always embellished with diamonds, the Rolex Pearlmaster is the brand’s most decadent watch model. As a result, Pearlmaster watches are among the priciest in Rolex’s catalog. However, opting for a used Rolex Pearlmaster offers significant savings, as they are often considerably discounted in the pre-owned market.
History of the Pearlmaster
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster collection was launched in 1992, offering ultra-lavish versions of ladies’ Datejust watches. While the case shape and dial layouts were taken from the Datejust lineup, the new models debuted a new five-link bracelet called the Pearlmaster—which is where the watch takes its name.
Rolex initially made the Pearlmaster available in two sizes, 29mm and 34mm, both of which were noticeably larger than the Lady-Datejust (26mm) and midsize Datejust (31mm) watches of the era
Around 2000, Rolex applied a similar approach when it paired the Day-Date with the Pearlmaster bracelet. Dubbed the Day-Date Masterpiece, these short-lived versions were also bigger than the standard Day-Date “President” watches, with cases measuring 39mm instead of 36mm.
A little over a decade later, Rolex launched the Pearlmaster 39 model, which is the first to run on Rolex’s new-generation Caliber 3235 time and date movement. Today, Rolex only makes Pearlmaster watches in 34mm or 39mm sizes, all furnished with time and date dials.
Three-time NBA champion Andre Iguodala treated himself to a platinum and diamond Rolex Pearlmaster Masterpiece watch in 2012 to celebrate winning an Olympic gold medal.
Pearlmaster Timeline
Pearlmaster Design, Features and Maintenance
Regardless of the size or specific reference, Rolex Pearlmaster Datejust watches all share the following design details:
- A precious metal Oyster case water-resistant to 100 meters
- A screw-down winding crown
- Diamonds either on the dial, bezel, case, bracelet or all of the above
- A precious metal Pearlmaster bracelet with rounded links in a five-piece configuration
- A dial with a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens
- A sapphire crystal
- An automatic movement
Like many other Rolex watches, Pearlmaster watch models are classified by their case sizes:
- Rolex Pearlmaster 29 (discontinued)
- Rolex Pearlmaster 34
- Rolex Pearlmaster 39
The Rolex Pearlmaster Day-Date, also known as the Rolex Masterpiece, features:
- A precious metal 39mm Oyster case water-resistant to 100 meters
- A screw-down winding crown
- A diamond-set bezel
- A dial with a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens and a day window at 12 o’clock
- A precious metal Pearlmaster bracelet with rounded links in a five-piece configuration
- Sapphire crystal
- Caliber 3155 automatic movement
Material options of the Pearlmaster have included:
- Rolex Pearlmaster Gold – 18k yellow, white or Everose gold
- Rolex Pearlmaster Tridor – a mix of three shades of gold
- Rolex Pearlmaster Platinum
Gem-setting on the Rolex Pearlmaster can range from a few diamonds on the bezel to models entirely paved in diamonds, including the namesake bracelet. When Rolex debuted the Pearlmaster 39 in 2015, some models came with striking multi-colored sapphire-set bezels in a gradient colorway.
Similar to most modern Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches, the Pearlmaster is water-resistant to 100 meters. However, as a gold or platinum jewelry watch that’s adorned with diamonds, it’s perhaps a better idea to wear the Pearlmaster more cautiously than Rolex’s durable steel models or robust sports watches. As always, ensure that the Pearlmaster’s winding crown is screwed securely into the case before getting it near water. Rolex’s official recommendation is that its watches be serviced at least once every ten years.
Rolex Pearlmaster Price
If you come across a Rolex Pearlmaster for sale, whether new at retail or pre-owned in the secondary market, it will be expensive. After all, these are precious metal luxury Rolex watches set with diamonds. However, used Rolex Pearlmaster watches are frequently sold for much less than retail prices.
The least expensive versions will be pre-owned Pearlmaster 34 models in gold, dotted with a few diamonds on the bezels, which typically start at around $10,000. Larger cases, newer models and more gems translate to price points that are easily three to four times that. It’s not uncommon to find used pre-owned Rolex Pearlmaster watches paved with diamonds that are priced in the six-figure price range.
Since it is no longer in production, the Rolex Day-Date Masterpiece can only be sourced from the secondary market. These start at around $40,000 for gold versions with diamond-set bezels but quickly increase with additional diamonds and/or platinum versions.
Watchmaker’s Perspective
The Rolex Pearlmaster is famous for its extensive use of precious stones, but there is another aspect of this extraordinary watch that merits a close examination: the Chronergy Escapement in its Caliber 3235 movement. Rolex has always worked on refining the performance of their dependable movements, and the addition of the Chronergy Escapement moves the precision of the Caliber 3235 inside of the Rolex Pearlmaster to a new level.
All mechanical watches use an escapement to translate rotational motion to lateral impulses. If you hold a mechanical watch close to your ear, you will likely be able to hear the "tick tock" sound created by the escapement doing its job. In the normal Swiss lever escapement, nearly 2/3 of the energy from the mainspring is lost due to friction. The Chronergy Escapement improves this by 15%, by optimizing the geometry of the parts and lightening them substantially.
One noticeable way this was done was by manufacturing thinner pallet stones. Pallet stones are not actually stones, but rather are made from the same material as the jewel bearings in a mechanical watch. The updated size of the pallet stones in the Rolex Pearlmaster Caliber 3235 are an ingenious way to increase the precision of this beautiful watch.
